by Angela Glowacki

When I first arrived in Taiwan I distinctly remember proclaiming myself as the sweatiest person on the island and vowing to not spend more time outside than absolutely necessary. I’ve never considered myself to be very outdoorsy and hiking was never something I did voluntarily. However, my dad had come with me to Taipei to see me off and wanted to hit some of the city’s most popular spots, so I begrudgingly laced up my sneakers and headed to Elephant Mountain(Xiangshan 象山.）

Before I express how utterly taxing that first hike in Taiwan was for me, I think I should provide some context to the type of hiking I did back in Wisconsin – which was basically nothing. Hiking trails in Wisconsin are generally very flat and the weather is not nearly as humid as it is here. I was astonished to find that Elephant Mountain was basically nature’s stairmaster, we kept walking up and up. The website I looked at beforehand said it would take about an hour and a half to go up and down the mountain, but I am a bit embarrassed to say it took me about that long to make it to the peak. On the way up, older people would fly past me, barely breaking a sweat. It was impressive (and humbling) to see people older than my grandparents speed up the stairs while I was convinced that this hike was taking years off my life. When I thought I couldn’t possibly walk up one more step, we made it to the peak and were rewarded with the view of Taipei. I admitted to my dad (who had been on the receiving end of my endless grumbling the whole way up) that the view made it worth the climbing. We took our picture at the top and made our way back down. I felt satisfied that I had crossed it off my list but in the back of my mind decided I would probably not become an avid hiker in Taiwan.

▲My dad and I at Elephant Mountain (photo: Angela Glowacki)

A couple of months later, my friend invited me to go hike Elephant Mountain again, but this time at night. When I told him that I already did it once, he figured I wouldn’t join again, but my FOMO was stronger than my aversion to cardio, so once again I found myself climbing up the stairs to the peak. It was definitely easier on an October evening than an August afternoon and the view at night time was so different. It was a rainy evening and one of the people who joined us commented that it looked like Batman’s Gotham City, with city lights peering through the fog.

▲Elephant Mountain at Night (photo: Angela Glowacki)

The next month, some classmates invited me to hike to Yinhe Cave, which is a waterfall hike in New Taipei City. It was a rainy afternoon but we made the most of it. Along the way, I got to know my classmates more and it ended up being the start of a really strong friendship.

The small temple carved into the cliff beside the waterfall was incredibly rewarding to see after wandering on the trails. I remember it being one of the first times I was truly struck by the beauty and uniqueness of Taiwan. This hike was very straightforward and relatively easy. By then, I had gotten used to the fact that most hikes in Taiwan involved at least 20 minutes of stairs. I had really enjoyed this hike, even after my friend pointed out that I had a leech on my ankle (I survived).

▲My friends hiking Yinhe Cave (photo: Angela Glowacki)

To celebrate the end of the first semester, my friends and I went to Taroko National Park for a weekend trip. Looking back, I’m so thankful that I got the chance to visit Taroko before the earthquake in April 2024. I haven’t been back since, but I hear that it is slowly re-opening and I hope more people are able to go visit.

We spent the night in Hualien and then took the bus to Taroko the following morning, where we spent the entire day on different trails. I don’t remember the particular trails we did, but I remember marveling with my friends at the vast mountains and rivers. We visited small temples, lookouts, and riverbanks. Once again, I felt immense appreciation for my time in Taiwan. As I sat with my friends at the bell tower, I found myself comparing the scenery in front of me to back home in Wisconsin. I reflected on how lucky I was to be there at that moment with my new friends. I realized how these hiking trips always made me more appreciative of my time in Taiwan and all the amazing opportunities that being here afforded me.

▲Taroko Gorge (photo: Angela Glowacki)

Stegosaurus ridge

Stegosaurus Ridge is probably the most difficult and thrilling hike I’ve ever done. It’s the one that I still brag to my friends back home about, while having some intense cognitive dissonance about it because I block out how terrified I was in the moment. This hike is about 5-8 hours long and includes some rock climbing and rock scrambling that can be dangerous for inexperienced hikers. Up until this point, I had stuck mainly to stair-based hikes, with minimal climbing or risk. This hike sparked my interest in more exciting trails with taller peaks and ridges. It was unbelievable for me to think about how less than a year ago, 40 minutes on the steps of Elephant Mountain would have wiped me out, and yet there I was holding on for dear life on a precariously steep cliff. This wasn’t the type of growth I was expecting to experience when I first came here, but it was so empowering to see nevertheless.

▲Stegosaurus Ridge (photo: Angela Glowacki)

Thumb mountain

Thumb Mountain (or Muzhishan 拇指山) is a hike attached to Elephant Mountain and can be done alongside 9-5 Peak. My friend and I started hiking Elephant Mountain (again) and made our way to Thumb Mountain. On our way, we got very lost and subsequently adopted by a kind old couple who led us to the peak of Thumb Mountain. The lady informed us that her and her husband frequently hiked in this area and often helped foreigners find their way around the trails. I’ve noticed a lot of friendliness on the trails, from both foreigners and locals. The American Midwesterner in me always appreciates some “stranger friendliness” and I’ve found that the hikers of Taiwan are some of the most friendliest strangers around.

▲Thumb Mountain (photo: Angela Glowacki)

Wuliaojian

Completing Stegosaurus Ridge sparked an interest in me and I continued to seek out hikes that had more rock climbing and ridges. I went to Wuliaojian with the same friends I did Stegosaurus Ridge with and it was the most fun hike I’ve done in Taiwan so far. It felt like a safer version of Stegosaurus Ridge, which made it more enjoyable. Although the photos online make the hike look dangerous, like most of the hikes in Taiwan, there were plenty of ropes and railings to hang on to. My recommendation would be that if you aren’t scared of heights and are looking for a more “full body” hiking experience, Wuliaojian is the best place to go.

▲Wuliaojian (photo: Angela Glowacki)

I went home during the summer before my first and second semester with an increased interest in hiking and the great outdoors. However, as much as I am fond of my home state, it is not exactly the crown jewel of hiking in the United States. Back home, it is harder to get to longer hiking trails and of course, the geography is very different. I found that I prefer more challenging, longer hikes that involve climbing or are by bodies of water. In Wisconsin, these kinds of hikes are less common and would take nearly 4-6 hours of driving to get to. One memorable hike, however, that I did during my summer break was a trip to Devil’s Lake State Park. I’ve traveled to this state park several times when I was younger, often on school trips. This time around, I challenged myself by completing the two longer trails and ended with a swim in the lake.

I’ve never considered myself particularly daring or adventurous, but I think I found that part of myself on the peaks of Taiwan. There are small wins that we as students experience frequently in our daily lives – passing a Mandarin test, getting an internship, or making a new friend. For me, I’ve never really been one to take the time and appreciate these small wins, but when I finish a hike and look out at the view from the top of whatever peak I’ve climbed, for some reason those little victories come to my mind. I really would have never considered myself as “outdoorsy,” and honestly I still don’t – I am an incessant complainer on the trails – but opening up my mind and challenging myself to hiking in Taiwan has given me a valuable outlet to reflect and appreciate my time here.

▲9-5 Peak (photo: Angela Glowacki)

Now that the days are warming up, I highly recommend visiting a few of the many hikes that Taiwan has to offer. The hikes that I mentioned previously are my personal favorites because of how memorable they were, but I’ve also included some others that are less intensive or easier to travel to. Happy hiking!

▲Thumb Mountain (photo: Angela Glowacki)

Honorable mentions:

Bitoujiao (Keelung)

Jun Jian Yan Trail (Beitou)

Huangdidian (New Taipei City)

9-5 Peak/Four Beasts (Taipei)